Clothing Manufacturing Glossary: Terms Brands Should Know

Quick answer: This glossary explains 68 terms used in clothing manufacturing, from tech packs and PP samples to MOQ, CMT, AQL, Incoterms and textile certificates. It is written for fashion brands working with a manufacturer for the first time, by the production team at Ermi Tekstil in Istanbul.

Development and design

• Tech pack: The technical document a manufacturer uses to make a garment: flat sketches, measurements with tolerances, materials, construction, colourways, artwork, labels and packing. See our tech pack guide.
• Flat sketch: A clean front and back line drawing of a garment, without a model or shading, used in tech packs.
• Block: A base pattern with a proven fit that new styles are developed from.
• Pattern: The set of paper or digital pieces that the fabric is cut from.
• Grading: Scaling an approved base-size pattern up and down to create every size in the size chart.
• Points of measure (POM): The defined places on a garment where measurements are taken, such as chest, waist or inseam.
• Tolerance: How much a finished measurement may differ from the specification and still pass.
• Bill of materials (BOM): The list of every material and trim in a garment, with composition, colour, size and quantity.
• Colourway: One colour combination of a style, covering fabric and trims.
• Lab dip: A small fabric swatch dyed to match a target colour, approved before bulk dyeing.
• Strike-off: A test print on the actual fabric, approved before bulk printing.

Samples

• Proto sample: The first sample of a new style, made to check design and construction.
• Fit sample: A sample tried on a fit model to check and correct the fit.
• Size set: One sample in several sizes, used to check grading before bulk.
• Salesman sample: A sample used for selling, photography or pre-orders.
• Pre-production sample (PP sample): A sample in the bulk fabric and trims that becomes the reference for production. See our sampling guide.
• Top of production sample (TOP): A garment taken from the bulk run to confirm it matches the approved PP sample.

Fabrics and materials

• Composition: The fibre content of a fabric in percentages, for example 95% cotton and 5% elastane.
• GSM: Grams per square metre: the weight of a fabric. Higher GSM means a heavier fabric.
• Single jersey: A light knitted fabric with a smooth face, used for T-shirts and tops.
• Interlock: A double-knit fabric that is smooth on both sides and more stable than single jersey.
• Rib: A knit with vertical ribs and strong stretch, used for neckbands, cuffs and fitted tops.
• French terry: A knit with a smooth face and loops on the back, used for sweatshirts and joggers.
• Fleece: A knit with a brushed, soft back, used for warm hoodies and sweatshirts.
• Poplin: A tightly woven plain-weave fabric, used for shirts and dresses.
• Twill: A woven fabric with a diagonal rib, used for trousers and denim.
• Combed cotton: Cotton with short fibres removed before spinning, giving a smoother and stronger yarn. See our Turkish cotton guide.
• Ring-spun yarn: A finer, softer yarn than open-end yarn, common in better-quality jersey.
• Stock fabric: Fabric a supplier keeps in stock, which can be bought in smaller quantities than custom-dyed fabric.
• Deadstock: Surplus fabric left over from other production, sold in limited quantities.
• Trims: Everything on a garment except the main fabric: thread, zips, buttons, elastic, labels and tags.
• Interlining: A layer added inside collars, cuffs or plackets to give shape and support.

Production

• MOQ: Minimum order quantity: the smallest order a manufacturer will produce, usually per style and colour. See our MOQ guide.
• CMT (cut, make, trim): A service where the factory cuts and sews fabric and trims supplied by the brand.
• Full package: A service where the manufacturer also sources materials, develops samples, checks quality and packs. Often called FOB production in the apparel trade.
• Cut and sew: Making garments from fabric to the brand's own pattern, rather than decorating ready-made blanks. See cut and sew manufacturing.
• Private label: Garments made for one brand and sold under that brand's name. See private label.
• White label: A manufacturer's own design sold to several brands, each adding its own label.
• OEM and ODM: OEM: the manufacturer makes the brand's design. ODM: the manufacturer also supplies the design.
• Marker: The plan of how pattern pieces are laid on the fabric for cutting, made to reduce waste.
• Lead time: The time from order confirmation to goods ready for shipment.
• Overlock: A stitch that sews and finishes a seam edge at the same time, common on knits.
• Coverstitch: A stretchable stitch with parallel lines on the face, used for hems on jersey.
• Flatlock: A flat seam with no ridge, used where comfort against the skin matters.
• Bartack: A short, dense stitch that reinforces stress points such as pocket corners and belt loops.
• Garment dye: Dyeing finished garments rather than fabric, giving a softer, lived-in look.

Quality control

• Inline inspection: Quality checks made during production, so problems are caught early.
• Final inspection: A check of finished, packed goods before shipment.
• AQL: Acceptable Quality Limit: the maximum share of defective pieces accepted in a sample inspection, based on ISO 2859-1 sampling tables.
• Shrinkage: The change in measurements after washing, tested on the sample and agreed as a tolerance.
• Colourfastness: How well a fabric keeps its colour through washing, rubbing and light.
• Spirality: The twisting of side seams in knitted garments after washing.

Trade, shipping and compliance

• Incoterms: International Chamber of Commerce rules that define who pays and is responsible for each part of transport, such as EXW, FOB, DAP and DDP.
• EXW (Ex Works): The buyer collects the goods at the seller's premises and handles transport and export.
• FOB (Free On Board): For sea freight: the seller delivers the goods on board the vessel at the port of shipment.
• DAP (Delivered At Place): The seller delivers to a named destination; the buyer handles import clearance, duties and taxes.
• DDP (Delivered Duty Paid): The seller delivers to the destination with import clearance, duties and taxes paid.
• A.TR movement certificate: The document that lets goods of Turkish origin enter the EU duty-free under the customs union.
• HS code: The international customs code for a product, which sets its import duty.
• Landed cost: The full cost of a garment at your warehouse: unit price, freight, duty, taxes and handling. See our cost guide.
• Packing list: A shipping document listing the contents, quantities and weights of each carton.
• GPSR: The EU General Product Safety Regulation (EU) 2023/988, which applies to clothing sold in the EU. See our EU compliance guide.

Certificates

• GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard: certifies organic fibre content and processing through the supply chain.
• OCS: Organic Content Standard: verifies the amount of organic material in a product.
• GRS and RCS: Global Recycled Standard and Recycled Claim Standard: verify recycled content.
• OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100: A label for textiles tested for harmful substances.
• FSC: Forest Stewardship Council: certifies responsibly managed forest sources, relevant for viscose and lyocell pulp.
• Better Cotton: A programme for more sustainable conventional cotton farming, largely sourced through mass balance.

Working with a manufacturer

Terms make more sense in practice. Our guide to clothing manufacturers in Turkey explains the full process, and our production process page shows each step at Ermi Tekstil. When you are ready, send us your project.

Frequently asked questions